Shoe inseam sewing machines



y 7, 1963 L. G. MILLER 3,088,426

SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINES Filed June 14, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet l Q Om b Inventor L/oyd G. /7///@/* By his AfiO/NGy y 1963 L. G. MILLER 3,088,426

SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINES Filed June 14, 1961 4 Sheefs-Sheet 2 cs. MILLER SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINES May 7, 1963 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed June 14, 1961 May 7, 1963 L. G. MILLER SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINES 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed June 14, 1961 United States Patent 3,088,426 SHOE INSEAM SEWHNG MACHINES Lioyd G. Miller, Bever y, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Boston, Mass, a corporation of New Jersey Filed June 14, 1961, Ser. No. 117,057 6 Claims. (Cl. 112-58) The present invention relates to improvements in Goodyear inseam sewing machines of the curved hook needle type for attaching welts to lasted shoe uppers and sole members, such as disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,900,933, granted August 25, 1959, upon application of James P. Carter and an application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 840,148, filed September 15, 1959, upon application of the present inventor and Robert W. Bradley.

In the inseam sewing machine of the prior patent and application the leading end of a welt is sewn with a chain stitch seam to a shoe upper and to an upstanding rib on an insole by presenting the end of the welt to the stitch forming devices of the machine in such a way that the curved hook needle penetrates the upper and rib to the exclusion of the welt during the first stitch forming cycle of operation in a seam, and, thereafter, in the succeeding cycle the needle penetrates the welt, in addition to the other parts, thereby forming a secure binding across the leading end of the welt and preventing its displacement as the final end of the Welt is brought into close fitting engagement with the leading end at the end of the seam. Additional stitches are then inserted to overlap those at the leading welt end. To insure that the initial stitches in the leading end of the welt will not be pulled out of the shoe by excessive thread tension and thus be ineffective to hold the leading welt end in position, the machine of the application is provided with limited slack thread measuring means actuated at the end of a seam to withdraw a supply of thread .and to give up the withdrawn thread at the beginning of a new seam. While the thread measuring means thus described is effective for the purposes intended, there are certain instances where nonuniform results occasionally occur.

It is an object of the present invention to improve the operation of a Goodyear welt inseam sewing machine of the curved hook needle type, in which a looper and, if required, a thread finger act also to lay the sewing thread within the hook of the needle and a take-up controls the thread utilized by the other stitch forming devices in such a way that there is substantially no tendency for nonuniform results or improper insertion of stitches, especially at the beginning of a new seam. Further objects of the invention are to improve the construction and mode of operation of the thread finger employed in the prior machine and to provide greater space within the arc of needle curvature, wherein the surplus margin of a shoe upper may project upwardly further than heretofore without obstructing the sewing, so that no separate pretrimming operation is required. Still other objects of the invention are to provide a machine which not only does not require a special upper pretrimrning operation before sewing but also is of more simple construction which enables greater facility of assembly, repair and adjustment after manufacture than prior machines of the same type.

Certain features of the invention consistent with the objects noted reside in a machine for manufacturing shoes with a welt attached, wherein the curved hook needle is mounted to swing forwardly and rearwardly through its arc of curvature to enter the upper of a shoe and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole, the needle looper acts to lay the thread in the needle hook and the take-up tightens each stitch around the shank of the needle while in its work penetrating position, thereafter drawing additional thread past a tension wheel, in Which machine there is provided a cam for actuating the take-up to apply a heavy tension to the thread at the same time the looper is laying the thread in the needle hook, and to give up thread by movement of the take-up in a reverse direction before the threaded needle hook is retracted into the work, thereby preventing heavy tension from being applied to the thread after looping. If a heavy tension is applied in a sewing cycle at the same time as the looping operation there is danger of needle deflection, likelihood of complete thread retraction from the upper and rib of a shoe in the first stitch of a new seam, and possibly of occasional stranding generally. In this feature of improvement the difficulties referred to above are eliminated, while permitting use of an improved form of thread finger capable of measuring thread by movement along the line of a seam in a direction opposite to that of Work feed and to give up thread before the take-up tightens each stitch. In this feature it is possible to construct the thread finger with a hooked arm extending above the needle axis, providing maximum possible space beneath the needle axis for entry of most surplus upper materials met in common practice. In applying this feature of the invention to the illustrated machine the thread finger, as in the machine of the prior application, swings about an axis parallel to a plane defined by the curvature of the needle but the hooked arm of the thread finger extends forwardly above and downwardly in front of the needle axis instead of rearwardly beneath the needle axis where interference may occur between it and the surplus upper material within the arc of needle curvature.

These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed, will readily be understood by those skilled in the art from the following detailed specification, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a detail view in right side elevation of portions of a shoe inseam sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a sectional detail view on an enlarged scale of certain of the stitch forming and work engaging devices shown in FIG. 1, together with portions of a shoe being operated upon, looking from the right side of the machine and indicating the parts in positions assumed at the start of a new seam;

FIG. 3 is a similar view of the same parts showing the formation of a stitch after a main sewing shaft of the machine has been rotated through from its stopped position of FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic plan view taken on a further enlarged scale and partly broken away to illustrate the positions of the looper, a thread finger and a needle shown in FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 is a sectional detail view on a reduced scale of the thread finger, a rockshaft on which it is mounted and a bearing for the rockshaft;

FIG. 6 is an enlarged plan view, partly in section, showing the operation of the stitch forming and work engaging devices in the machine of FIG. 1, after the main sewing shaft has been rotated 131 from its stopped position.

FIG. 7 is a detail view on a further enlarged scale of the needle, thread finger and looper of FIG. 6, looking from the left of the machine;

FIG. 8 is a plan sectional view on the same scale as FIG. 6 illustrating the positions of the parts in a prior machine not embodying the features of the present invention, taken after the main sewing shaft has rotated indicating the results of improper tensioning on the thread in forming a seam, the needle being illustrated 3 in solid lines deflected from its proper position, shown in broken lines;

FIG. 9 is a detail plan view on an enlarged scale of the needle, thread finger and looper in the prior machine, taken at the beginning of a needle looping operation, and illustrating the effect of improper thread tensioning in stretching isolated fibers of the thread in a step which leads to subsequent stranding and breakage;

FIG. 10 is a detail view on an enlarged scale looking from the left side of the prior machine with the parts shown in positions assumed at 170 of rotation of the sewing shaft from stopped position, indicating a second step in the ultimate breakage of the thread;

FIG. 11 is a plan view of the same parts shown in FIG. 9 in the 170 position;

FIGS. 12 to 16, inclusive, are sectional views on a reduced scale showing successive positions of the same parts with the sewing shaft at 75, 131, 150, and 170, the plane of the section being taken somewhat differently from that illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 11, at right angles to the lower end of the looper and illustrating the proper operation of the looper in laying the thread in the needle in accordance with the present invention; and

FIG. 17 is a detail front view on a reduced scale of the looper and an adjustable mounting for it on the machine.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is a Goodyear welt shoe inseam sewing machine, such as that disclosed in the patent and application above identified and is provided with the usual stitch forming, feeding, and guiding devices for imparting a continuous feeding movement to the shoe parts and is capable of operating entirely around the marginal portion of a last supported Goodyear welt shoe. In the drawings the upper is indicated at 1, and a ribbed insole at 2. For convenience in easy visibility the shoe is presented in a conventional manner to the stitch forming devices in bottom uppermost position. The machine is equipped with a welt severing knife (not shown) mounted for movement toward and from a welt 3 as it passes through suitable guiding devices, automatic feeler controlled mechanism (also not shown) being provided for actuating theknife as the leading end of the welt already attached to the shoe approaches the sewing point a second time. To cause the feeler to engage the welt accurately and the leading and final ends of thewelt to be matched automatically with a smooth, inconspicuous joint the final end is secured rigidly to the upper by stitches inserted across the joint and brought into overlapping relation with those inserted at the beginning of the seam.

It has been found that inaccurate contact of the leading welt end with the .feeler may result from inserting loose stitches at the beginning of a seam, as shown in FIG. 8, which stitches do not bind the leading end of the welt into firm engagement with the other shoe parts. Even with the provision in the prior machine of a thread end holder arranged to maintain tension on the thread during the formation of the first stitch in a seam, loose stitches occasionally occur. Under certain conditions there is a tendency for the end of the thread in starting a new seam to be pulled loose from the thread end holder, so that control of the thread is lost and the thread end may then'be drawn freely by the needle through the work, leavingthe first stitches loose and ineffective in their holding power. As a result nonuniform engagement of the feeler by the welt persists and causes inac curate severance of the final end and an improper joint between the ends.

Besides the needle, indicated at 4 as being of the curved hook type,-the other stitch forming devices of the machine include a curved awl 5 (FIGS. 2 and 3), a tubular needle looper 6 mounted infront of the needle to lay thread in the hook of the needle, a thread measuring finger or hook 8, acting to provide thread for one side of each needle loop, a take-up 10, a thread tension wheel 12 (FIG. 1) against which each stitch is set in the work, a channel guide 14 for supporting the rib on the insole against the penetrating thrust of the needle and other engaging and manipulating devices for the thread, indicated at 15, as disclosed more fully in the application above referred to.

The needle 4 is rotatably mounted for oscillation to penetrate thesewing rib on the insole 2 and is slidably mounted for bodily movement in the direction of work feed to act with the channel guide, on the one hand, and the awl on the other hand, to impart a continuous and even feed of the work, as disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,920,998, granted August 8, 1933, upon application of A. R. Merrill. In the present machine the needle is mounted for oscillation between removable cheek plates 16 and 13 secured at opposite sides of an enclosing frame 20. The needle oscillates about a horizontal axis of a needle supporting shaft 22 passing through a needle carrying segment 24 (FIG. 2) as in the patent and application above identified. The cheek plates 16 and 18 are formed with two sets of bearings 26 and 28, within the lowermost set 26 of which the shaft 22 is slid able and rotatable, and within the uppermost set 28 of which shaft portions of an awl segment or carrier 30 are similarly mounted. The needle and awl segments, thus briefly described, constitute separately operable slides for feeding the work in'timed relation to the other stitch forming operations, the thread finger 8 and the channel guide 14 moving with the needle slide to assure proper relationships at all times with the needle regardless of the feeding movements.

The take-up 10, as in prior inseam sewing machines is actuated in one direction to impart a stitch tightening or setting action to the thread extending to a seam in each sewing cycle while he needle is in engagement with the work and the loop of the previously inserted stitch surrounds the shank of the needle While in its most forward position. The take-up is actuated in the opposite direction to give up thread to the stitch forming devices as the looper is passing the thread about the hooked end of the needle, preliminary to drawing a new loop of thread through the work. Thereafter, the take-up in prior machines continues to give up thread until the threaded needle hook has passedcompletely through the work with the new loop of thread. Eventually the take-up reaches .the end of its thread yielding stroke in a sewing cycle,

where it remains until a new cycle is started. After the take-up reaches the limit of its thread giving up stroke the threaded needle also approaches the end of its rearward or back stroke, drawing the loop of thread with it and imparting a further tension to the thread in the stitch already formed. Both, when the take-up tensions the thread about the needle and when the needle reaches the end of its back stroke, additional thread utilized in the formation of each stitch is drawn past the tension wheel 12 to provide a uniform tension. However, while the take-up tensions the thread a heavy force is required to rotate the tension wheel by reason of pressure from a coil spring brake band 32 (FIG. 1) wound about a drum integral with the tension wheel and engaged at one end with a fixed member on the machine frame and at its other end with a pin 34 mounted in a lever comprising the take-up, the take-up lever oscillating about a fixed shaft 36, as more fully described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,562,175, granted July 31, 1951, upon application of F. E. Cole and No. 2,707,926, granted May 10, 1955, upon application of O. R. Haas.

As the needle is retracting with its loop of thread at the end of its back stroke the force of the coil spring brake 32 is substantially relieved and the tension on the thread is greatly reduced. The purpose for this reduction in tension on the thread is to enable the needle to draw thread from the work more readily through its hook, where the thread is closely confined frictionally without overstraining the needle or thread, than is possible when the takeup is acting alone. Also, while the take-up is acting the loop of thread surrounding the needle requires greater tension to take out the slack between it and the previous stitch than when the needle draws thread, so that a heavier braking pressure of the brake band 32 is required for an equivalent eifective tension in the stitch while the take-up is taking up thread. Also, the operation of the illustrated machine is such that there is a very brief interval only in each sewing cycle when the thread passing from the take-up to the last formed stitch in the work is free of abrupt bends about the needle and the thread finger. Since much of the tension imparted to the thread extending to the last formed stitch is lost by frictional action on the parts including the loop surrounding the needle about which the thread is bent, the time in a sewing cycle during which a well controlled tightening tension on a stitch is exerted by the take-up is extremely limited.

Referring to FIG. 1, the lever for the take-up is illustrated as being actuated by a roll 38 engaging a groove 40 in a cam 42 secured by a key 44 to the main sewing shaft, indicated at 46. Taking the starting point of a sewing cycle as the position at which the machine is stopped and at which the needle comes to rest out of engagement with the work at the end of a seam, the shape of the cam groove 40 from the 360 or 0 position to the 75 position causes each loop of thread running from a previous stitch to be tightened about the needle engaging the work and an additional supply of thread to be withdrawn past the tension wheel 12. The positions of the parts at this time are illustrated in FIG. 4, wherein the thread is shown extending without appreciable bending through the looper and, thence through an obtuse angle to the previously formed stitch.

In prior machines the take-up starts giving up thread immediately after the 75 position of the sewing shaft is reached by forming the take-up actuating cam groove 40 in a manner similar to that illustrated in broken lines 48 (FIG. 1) with a continuously increasing radius of curvature, so as to impart a steady thread giving up movement to the take-up. When the take-up reaches its maximum thread giving up position shown in FIG. 1, it remains in this position until the end of the sewing cycle at the 360 position of the cam is reached. Along the portion of the cam groove from 75 to 131 as indicated by broken lines 48, the cam roll of the prior machine causes the take-up to give up thread at a rate slightly less than required by the looper and thread finger in laying the thread in the needle hook. It has always been considered essential for a well balanced timing system to actuate the looper and thread finger with sufficient speed to cause a substantial degree of tension to be imparted to the thread thus given up by the take-up. The tension applied to the thread ordinarily is suflicient to stress the thread finger severely and to cause the needle to be deflected slightly out of its normal plane from the broken line position of FIG. 8 to the full line position. In so doing the thread 15 is flattened against the needle by combined tension and sliding movement while the thread is entering the needle hook. In flattening the thread a few strands in the thread may be separated from the others (FIG. 9). Before the thread enters the hook of the needle, the separated strands become elongated by tension while the remainder slip into the needle hook (FIGS. 10 and 11). Thereafter, the elongated strands will project loosely from the needle hook sufficiently to escape the barb of the needle, so that when the needle hook is drawn into the work the separated strands clog the needle perforation until complete thread breakage occurs. Another difficulty with such an arrangement is that the needle itself may be bent repeatedly beyond its elastic limit while being deflected by thread tension, causing early fatigue in the material of the needle and necessity for frequent needle replacement.

According to an important feature of the present invention the take-up actuating groove 40 is cut with a more rapidly increasing radius than heretofore between the 75 and the 131 positions of the sewing shaft, so that the take-up will give up thread faster than required by the looper and thread finger, thus providing a substantial amount of slack thread during the looping operation, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 14. By providing a substantial amount of slack thread, deflection of the needle, as shown in the full lines of FIG. 8, is avoided and the needle maintains its normal dotted line single plane position of FIG. 8 under all conditions.

After the looper first bends the thread about the needle (FIG. 15) the needle starts to retract and after retracting a short distance a reapplication of tension is applied to the thread by the take-up to cause the thread to slide along the needle securely into the needle hook (FIG. 16). Shortly thereafter the thread finger starts to give up its measured thread. At the position the thread tensioning movement of the take-up serves to hold the thread securely within the needle hook and eventually to disengage the thread entirely from the thread finger, so that as the threaded needle continues its retraction a reliable control is exercised on the thread, all without applying a heavy stress to the thread finger. After the position (FIG. 16) the take-up again starts to give up thread to the retracting needle until the 222 position of the cam 42 is reached. At this point in the rotation of the cam 42 the groove 40 provides a dwell while the needle continues its retraction nearly to the 255 position of the cam shaft 46. The needle reaches the end of its retracting stroke at 255 and the previously formed stitch then is tightened still further by slippage of the threads on each other; thus, the cycle is completed in the same manner as in prior machines, the dwell in the cam groove 40 from the 255 to the 360 position maintaining the tension on the thread during transfer of work feed from the needle slide to the awl slide.

By actuating the take-up to provide slack thread during the looping operation, as is readily apparent from FIG. 6, no difficulty is experienced through lack of control in the thread or possibility of escape of the thread from the thread measuring finger 8 for the reason that the slack is kept less in amount than required to unhook the thread from the thread finger. Also, the time during which the slack occurs is so short that no difliculty from this cause is likely. Furthermore, since the thread is retensioned lightly as it is drawn into the needle hook there is no possibility for the thread to become disengaged from the hook of the thread finger at this critical point in any sewing cycle.

With the release of tension in the thread during the looping operation the reapplication of tension directly thereafter, according to the present invention, provides a number of advantages in addition to that of avoiding thread or needle breakage. The first stitch of the seam shown in FIG. 6 is tightened with reliability under all conditions against the leading end of the welt first attached to the shoe to hold it securely in position as it approaches the knife actuating feeler, and less strain needs to be applied to the thread finger, so that a new and improved form of thread finger may be utilized, or in some instances it is possible that the use of the thread finger may be eliminated entirely. By eliminating the thread finger entirely greater simplification of construction about the sewing point is possible in the machine.

As in the prior inseam sewing machine a thread end holder engages the thread with a frictional grip similar to that employed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,492,147, granted December 27, 1949, upon application of Dana P. Hay, so that as the first stitch of a seam is being inserted the end of the thread is drawn by the needle toward the work along a broken line path 49 of FIG. 6. The thread end holder, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 8, is indicated at 50 and comprises a pair of yielding gripping jaws to which is attached a thread cutter consisting ofia knife 52. The gripping jaws 50 are formed by a pair of horizontal plates having flaring ends between which the thread is drawn before engaging the knife. The jaws into the frame. After entry of the thread into the jaws and severance of the thread at the end of a seam, all that is necessary for starting a new seam is to introduce a shoe into sewing position and to set the machine in operation. During the first retracting stroke of the threaded needle in the prior machine the end of the thread is withdrawn from the holder.

To prevent the end of the thread from being pulled entirely through the work, as along a broken line path 56 of FIG. 8, during the formation of the first stitch of a scam the operation of the take-up, according to the present invention, applies no further tension to the thread until it is laid securely within the needle hook during its second work penetrating stroke. After the thread is laid in the needle hook it is immediately drawn into the work by the succeeding retracting stroke of the needle. At the time the threaded needle hook enters the work the amount of friction impressed on the thread limits the sliding movement in the needle hook and the possibility of further substantial displacement of the thread end. By actuating the take-up while threading the needle to give up a limited amount of thread in each sewing cycle, the application of excessive tension to the thread at a critical time between the formation of the first and second stitches is, therefore, avoided. Thus, in a marked degree the likelihood of withdrawal of thread through the work in starting a new seam along the broken line 56, as in FIG. 8, is prevented and reliable formation of a tight first stitch, as in FIG. 6, is insured.

Without the use of a thread finger beneath the needle shaft a still further improvement in clearance for the surplus marginal upper material on a shoe is possible. By increasing the radius of needle curvature, as herein illustrated, from of an inch commonly employed heretofore to 1% inches, additional space is also made available for surplus upper material. Even when it is found necessary to utilize a thread finger the reduction in tension applied to the thread. as a result of the take-up actuating mechanism herein disclosed, enables the use of a more intricate form of thread finger which still leaves the space inside the curvature of the needle clear for entry of surplus marginal upper material. Such improved form of thread finger would be impossible to use with the prior machine because of the great stress applied to the thread finger in that machine.

The improved form of thread measuring finger S is best shown in FIGS. 2, 3 and 5 and comprises a composite construction with a right angle58 (FIG. 3) avoiding the necessity of a more rigid integral arm, as in the prior machine. The thread finger of the illustrated machine acts in substantially the same manner as in the machine of the prior applications and patents. In supplying thread to the needle during each stitchforming cycle, as in the prior machine, the thread finger is mounted for movement with the needle slide to and fro in the line of feed to maintain uniformly its proper operating position with relation to the needle. The thread finger also is mounted to swing about an axis parallel to the plane defined by the needle curvature through a thread measuring movement substantially in the line of feed across the plane of the needle and in a direction opposite to that of work feed. The proper length of thread thus will be measured by the thread finger regardless of adjustments for variation in lengths of stitch or changes in thickness of the material operated upon. To give up thread the thread finger moves in the direction of work feed before the take-up acts to tighten each loop surrounding the needle (FIG. 16). Thus, the danger of overstressing the thread finger is avoided.

The thread finger .oftheprior machine is formed integrally with the'lower endof a rockshaft, such as that .shown at 60 in- FIGS.-3 and 5. The rockshaft in the prior machine is also mounted for rotation in a carrier, similar tothat shown herein at.62, and the rockshaft of the prior machine extends downwardly below the level of the needle shaft 22. The prior thread finger has a hooked arm extending radially forwardly and beneath the shaft 22 within -the circle of needle curvature into co-acting relationship thread during the looping operation in the present machine, it is no longer necessary to form the thread finger arm integrally with its rockshaft or to extend its arm exlcusively in a radial direction from the rockshaft entirely beneath the needle supporting shaft in order that a rigid construction may be retained. Accordingly, the space formerly occupied by the thread finger arm is now made available for entry of the surplus marginal portions of the shoe upper.

In the present machine the thread finger rockshaft 60 terminates above the level of the needle shaft 22 and has its right angle arm extending forwardly above and downwardly in front of the needle to embrace it within the angle. Because of the right angle formation it is necessary to disconnect the arm from the rockshaft during assembly or disassembly, or otherwise to remove the needle shaft 22. To enable the thread finger to be disconnected readily from the rockshaft 60 without removal of the needle shaft thepresent thread finger is secured to the rockshaft by a screw 64 passing loosely through the thread finger arm and into threaded engagement with the lower end of the rockshaft. The rockshaft 60 also has a diametrical rib fitting within a transverse groove on the thread finger arm (FIG. 3) to prevent relative rotation between the two. The thread finger arm beyond the right angle terminates in an olfset hook of the same formation as the hooked portion of the prior, wholly radial thread arm, the position of the rockshaft for the thread finger being at that side of the plane defined by the needle curvature in advance of the point of needle operation.

The upper end of the rockshaft 60 is surrounded by a collar 68 clamped to the rockshaft by a bolt 70 and provided with a ball headed projection surrounded by a socket in a link 72 forming the usual operating connection for the thread finger. In other respects the machine is-similar to that disclosed in the prior applications and patents referred to above, the channel guide14 being adjusted to a position on the carrier 62 lower than in prior machines to compensate for the increased radius of the needle. To assist further in the operation of the machine it is equipped with a welt guide 74, shown in FIG. 2, and the looper is supported in an improved mounting which is more conveniently adjustable than herebefore.

The tubular looper mounting comprises a split perforated block 76 engaged with the upper end of the looper and secured to it by means of a clamp screw 78 (see FIGS. 1, 2, 3, and 17). The split block 76 has a horizontally extending cylindrical portion at right angles to the length of the looper, and is rotatably mounted in an opening in a second split perforated block 80 attached to a support bar 86 by a tongue and groove connection 82. The connection 82 extends along the line of stitching at right angles to the looper. To hold the block 80 and the bracket 86 together a clamp bolt 84 passes through an opening in the block 80 and through the forward end of the support bar 86, which is constructed and arranged in the same manner as in the prior machine. To secure the block 76 from rotation on the block 80 the block 80 has passing through it a clamp screw 88. By loosening the clamp screw 78 the looper may be moved lengthwise along a line tangent to the arc of needle curvature in the block 76. Upon loosening the clamp screw '88 the looper may be swung at its lower end toward and from the needle support shaft 22, enabling adjustment of the lower end of the looper transversely to the plane of the needle. In this way the looper may be alined properly and accurately with the needle. Such alinement is not only desirable to assist in manufacturing and maintenance operations, but is of benefit in the daily use of the machine to avoid applying excessive tension to the sewing thread and to the thread finger in accordance with the benefits obtained from the improved take-up actuating mechanism.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a machine embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a curved hook needle mounted for oscillation about a substantially horizontal shaft to enter the upper of a shoe and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole, a needle looper acting to lay thread in the book of the needle, a channel guide to support the rib of the insole against the thrust of the needle, a take-up for tightening the loop in each stitch surrounding the shank of the needle while engaging the work, and a tension wheel past which the thread is drawn by the take-up in its tightening movement, in combination with a cam for actuating the take-up while the looper is laying thread in the needle hook to give up thread faster than required by the looper before the threaded needle hook is retracted, thereby preventing deflection of the needle during the action of the looper in laying thread in the hook of the needle.

2. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as in claim 1, in which there is provided a thread measuring finger mounted to swing about an axis parallel to a plane defined by the needle curvature at that side of the needle plane in advance of the point of operation of the needle, to move in a direction opposite to that of work feed in measuring thread and to give up thread to the needle before the take-up acts to tighten each loop surrounding the needle.

3. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a curved hook needle mounted for oscillation on a shaft to enter the upper of a shoe presented in bottom uppermost position and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole, a needle looper mounted in front of the needle to lay thread in the hook of the needle and a channel guide arranged to support the sewing rig against the thrust of the needle, in combination with a thread measuring finger mounted to swing about an axis parallel to a plane defined by the needle curvature at that side of the needle plane in advance of the point of needle operation and formed with a hooked arm extending above the needle axis to provide space beneath the axis of the needle for entry of the surplus marginal portions of shoe upper material.

4. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as in claim 3, wherein the hooked arm of the thread measuring finger extends above and downwardly in front of the needle shaft.

5. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as in claim 4, in which a rotatable rockshaft supports the thread measuring finger and a disconnectable joint between the hooked arm of the thread measuring finger and the rockshaft enables assembly of the machine without removing the needle shaft.

6. A shoe inseam sewing machine haping a curved hook needle mounted for oscillation to enter the upper of a shoe and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole of the shoe, a needle looper acting to lay thread in the hook of the needle and a channel guide arranged to support the rib of the insole against the thrust of the needle, in combination with a looper mounting comprising a block engaged 'with the upper end of the looper and formed with a cylindrical portion at right angles to the length of the looper, a second block through which passes the cylindrical portion of the first mentioned block, a support bar for the second block, to which the second block is attached by a tongue and groove connection, extending along the line of stitching, and clamp screws for securing the blocks together on the support bar or enabling the looper to be adjusted length-wise along a line tangent to the arc of needle curvature in the block or to be swung toward and from the needle shaft, respectively for adjusting purposes.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 957,954 Hays May 17, 1910 1,091,421 Ballard Mar. 24, 1914 2,354,730 Ashworth et al. Aug. 1, 1944 2,562,175 Cole July 31, 1951 2,707,926 Haas May 10, 1955 2,900,933 Carter Aug. 25, 1959 

1. A SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINE HAVING A CURVED HOOK NEEDLE MOUNTED FOR OSCILLATION ABOUT A SUBSTANTIALLY HORIZONTAL SHAFT TO ENTER THE UPPER OF A SHOE AND A PENETRATE THE SEWING RIB OF AN INSOLE, A NEEDLE LOOPER ACTING TO LAY THREAD IN THE HOOK OF THE NEEDLE, A CHANNEL GUIDE TO SUPPORT THE RIB OF THE INSOLE AGAINST THE THRUST OF THE NEEDLE, A TAKE-UP FOR TIGHTENING THE LOOP IN EACH STITCH SURROUNDING THE SHANK OF THE NEEDLE WHILE ENGAGING THE WORK, AND A TENSION WHEEL PAST WHICH THE THREAD IS DRAWN BY THE TAKE-UP IN ITS TIGHTENING MOVEMENT, IN COMBINATION WITH A CAM FOR ACTUATING THE TAKE-UP WHILE THE LOOPED IS LAYING THREAD IN THE NEEDLE HOOK TO GIVE UP THREAD FASTER THAN REQUIRED BY THE LOOPER BEFORE THE THREADED NEEDLE HOOK IS RETRACTED, THEREBY PREVENTING DEFLECTION OF THE NEEDLE DURING THE ACTION OF THE LOOPER IN LAYING THREAD IN THE HOOK OF THE NEEDLE. 